The Pinnacle of my Hajj Journey

Asalaamu Alaykum readers,

Hajj time is rapidly drawing closer, and I can feel the tangible excitement mingled with an uncertain anxiety in the air. I have been graced with several visits by prospective hujaaj in the past two weeks, and my heart overflows with joy for them, for this most wonderful journey they will be embarking on. 

My last post ended with the 5 waqts on Mina and by 2am the following day we started preparing to leave for Arafah. We performed Fajr and then gathered at the entrance to the SA camp to board the bus, which would take us to Arafah. The air was heavy with a solemn energy, as if every Hujaaj was deep in contemplation after a full day of preparation in the tents. I was in a state of heightened anticipation, notwithstanding physical discomfort and beginnings of a migraine. My physical state did not even feature in my awareness of the day other than being an insignificant detail. Moreover, I felt as if I was walking through the day on another plane, as if a magical energy was propelling me forward. It cannot be described as anything other than an immensely sacred experience. The sanctity of our journey weighed heavily on my consciousness, and my only wish was to be fully present during the waqt of Arafah and to make the most of this precious time. 

After waiting by the gates for about an hour and a half, we eventually boarded a bus to Arafah. The bus ride was probably more than an hour, I was so preoccupied that time was not a factor. When we eventually arrived, we were bustled into another gated area with open marquee-type tents. We followed our travel operator who directed us to our tent, carpeted with red mats- this was to be our spot for the duration of Arafah. It looked nothing like I expected, I had visions of being on open plains where I'd be able to to see Jabal Rahmah, and hopefully be close enough to catch a glimpse of Masjidul Nimrah. Instead, it looked very similar to Mina, with rows and rows and rows of tents, and if you were lucky, and in the right spot you'd be able to see Jabal Rahmah. Masjidul Nimrah, the place where the last sermon was delivered, also the mosque which only part of the building is on Arafah, was nowhere in sight. We were settled into our tents by 9:30am, with the heat already affecting hujaaj. The tents were not air-conditioned and had blowers which circulated more hot air. Despite the extreme heat and my migraine now at full blast (along with extreme cramps), I was overcome with gratitude and awe. After making duah daily throughout my trip that I be spared to arrive on Arafah, to be present and to be in good physical shape for these days; I have indeed been blessed to have arrived. I nibbled some snacks, took some painkillers and waited for the pain to pass. Some hujaaj took the time to nap and some were deep in reflection. I cannot remember when I became oblivious to the pain, oblivious to everyone else in the tent with me. But at some point I felt as if I was alone in the tent, mentally preparing for when the waqt of Arafah appeared. I was vaguely aware of hubby a few rows ahead of me with the rest of the men, but in a sense we were completely disconnected. Each one of us preparing for the most sacred dialogue of our lives. As the waqt arrived, our spiritual leaders started with a group jamm salaah (joined two prayers of Thuhr and Asr), followed by a group duah. Hubby and I had agreed that we would meet during the waqt of Arafah for some time on our own, away from the larger group. And we had both prepared something in writing for the other which we shared during our time together. A special moment shared with my soulmate on the most momentous day of our lives. Thereafter we returned to the tents and continued with our individual Arafah programmes.

Every single moment of the waqt of Arafah is indelibly imprinted in my mind, and at the time of Asr, at the height of the day's heat, a soothing breeze came up, wafting through the tents and bringing some cloud cover. It was such a welcome respite from the 50+ degree heat, and a tangible feeling of Allah (SWT) grace and mercy. At this point my senses were sharpened, I could not recall my physical discomfort, only a heightened sense of gratefulness; for my life, for my trials, for every single experience which has shaped me, and ultimately led me to this pivotal moment in my life. As I went through my Arafah programme, I was overcome with emotion, as the honoured guest of the Almighty, my place on this vast plains brought me a sense of peace, a sense of my purpose in life and essentially made me realise what my priorities are. I became acutely aware that everything I did in life was not for myself, but to serve my Creator and to live the destiny and purpose He has decreed. I became intensely aware that life as I know it had fundamentally changed forever. By Maghrieb the waqt of Arafah had passed, and we prepared to leave for Musdalifah. We waited at the gate of our camp to board the buses while those performing the walking Hajj (which was strongly discouraged due to the extreme heat and massive crowds) started the next leg of their Hajj journey. 

After a crawling bus ride of about an hour or so, we arrived at Musdalifah around 10:30. As we arrived we were provided with some water and fruit for sustenance.We found a spot close to the boundary, performed prayers and collected our pebbles. By this time it was almost midnight and we moved towards the boundary to set off on the long walk to the Jamaraats. The walk to Aqabah was a long one, and again I lost track of time. I do not remember any physical discomfort, nor do I remember feeling tired, or hot; and just moved forward, propelled by a surge of spiritual energy. The Jamaraats have a huge 3 storey structure built around which resembles a parking garage. The crowds were still manageable and we easily approached Aqabah, pelted, and without much fuss, exited on the other side. Even pelting Aqabah was a surreal experience and by this time I was floating on a high, yet still aware of every single moment. As we walked away from the Jamaraats, we realised that it was now Eid morning,  and I start the Taqbeer in my mind. As I reflect now, every single detail is etched in my memory with clarity.

We were really fortunate (Algamdulilah) to have flagged down a luxury bus for our entire Hajj group to transport us to Makkah. I could feel physical exhaustion set in as I sat on the bus, and yet I easily managed the next couple of hours. I decided to join my group going to Makkah for Tawaful Ifaldah (even though I was unable to perform my tawaaf) and decided to wait outside on the Mataaf for hubby to perform his Tawaful Ifaldah and Sa'ee. I had missed the Ka'bah in those few days in Azizziah and Mina, and when I saw the glowing green lights of the clocktower, I felt as if I was home. Shortly after Fajr, Ghaalid had completed his Tawaaf and Sa'ee and we left as quickly as possible to miss the crowds. We hailed a taxi and made our way back to Azizziah. At this point, I was still partially in ihraam, having only performed the 'klein verlossing' (ie clipping of the hair) after pelting Aqabah. This meant I could shower and remove the ihraam garb, but I would still need to perform my Tawaful Ifaldah and Sa'ee before I could exit the state of ihraam completely. 

Once we'd showered and freshened up, we ate and slept; we only needed to return to Mina by Maghrieb. We returned to Mina after Asr, refreshed, fed and with a change of clothes for the next 2/3 days of Tashreeq. We spent the night performing Thikr on Mina, and our spiritual leader informed us of arrangements to pelt the Jamaraats the following day. Each group is allocated a time, and a Saudi guide, along with a SAHUC representative, leads each group to pelt. The crowds were massive, the heat of the day was intense and we approached the crowded Jamaraats with guidance from our spiritual leader. Algamdulilah, I managed to pelt the Jamaraats with ease, and as I cast each stone I pictured the casting out of my own personal nafs, and my demons- this too was a poignant experience for me. On our way back to Mina we passed by our Azizziah accommodation and popped into the room to freshen up before returning for the 2nd day of Tashreeq. The second day, the crowds were larger, and more menacing, but Algamdulilah we once again managed to pelt with ease. We joined the enormous crowds making their way back to Azizziah, stopped for a bite to eat and returned to our room. We didn't return for the 3rd day of Tashreeq, so our journey was now complete. However, I still needed to return to the Haram to perform my Ifaldah and Sa'ee, so the extra week we'd be staying would be enough time to comfortably complete all my obligations. 

I make duah for a Hajj Maqboel and Hajj Mabroer! ♥️

Mina is a city of tents

The Arafah camps are set up along the road, and beyond...

Jabal Rahmah

Sign directing Hujaaj to the Jamaraats

Mina camps

This sight was like heaven for my soul

The Sa'ee

Entering the Jamaraats, you can see the 3-story building in the top right

Aqabah is this paved pillar, and we pelt over the yellow fence

The crowds exiting the Jamaraats after pelting Aqabah

My view as I waited for hubby to complete his Tawaaf & Sa'ee

Walking to pelt on day two, the Jamaraats ahead looking like a parking garage

Algamdulilah! After pelting on day 2 with our SAHUC representative

Crowds departing after pelting Jamaraats on Day 2

Caio for now, 

RuBe xoxo

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Hajj Part 1 - Departure for Mina

Asalaamu Alaykum readers, 

It is with a hollow feeling in my stomach that I write this post, it's reminiscent of a loss, of a feeling of grief; but it is actually an intense yearning coupled with an overwhelming sense of gratitude. I have kept my Hajj post for the last days of the Ramadaan, as I seem to be reliving it more and more as the month draws to a close. I reflect back on my Hajj, on those long awaited 5 days and can say that I am content that I experienced the most magnificent pilgrimage. Those days on Mina were the highlight of my life, spent on a mattress in a tent with 50 other women, Algamdulilah! 

We moved out of central Makkah on the 4th Thul Hijj and relocated to Azzizziyah. I had heard so many horror stories of Azzizziyah, and yet I tried not to have any expectations and accept whatever the situation was with grace. When we arrived, I was only taken aback by the dustiness of the place, yes it was basic (but then again anything would be basic after a 5 star hotel). All I needed to do to make the place comfortable was to clean, place my musallahs on the tiled floor, and it was transformed into my home for the next 4 days. These 4 days leading up to Hajj was so necessary for me, it helped me to disengage from the Ka'bah and focus on my Hajj. I could now prepare for the most important 5 days of life, my sacred dialogue with my creator. And during this time I also detached from the material world and the family back home (there was no wi-fi so we were in contact intermittently), the move to Azziziyah was therefore a blessing. It was a quiet time, spent in thikr, group talks and also a bit of shopping for food (for our when we returned on Eid morning).

The morning we left for Mina we gathered in the communal salaah area of our accommodation before Fajr,  Wednesday, 8th Thul Hijj. All dressed in ihraam, a bag packed for next 3 days (I packed some light snacks, surahs, duahs, my hajj journal, bathroom bag, change of underwear, scarf and leggings). And we made our nieyah to enter into ihraam as a group. Then we waited for the go-ahead to walk to the main road to board the bus which would take us to Mina. This only happened after about 2 hours, and even though Mina was literally a 15- 20minute walk from our building, the bus ride was over an hour long. I was all keyed up, a ball of nerves and emotion as THE day had finally arrived. Firstly I was so thankful that I was in good health, apart from the devastation of the night before when I got my period...Yes, it happened, despite taking meds, and timing myself... the dreaded 'curse' had arrived. And I felt deflated, as if I had lost something so momentous; and yet after sitting in absolute despair for a while, I listened to our spiritual leader address the issue. I had attended his hajj classes, and I had heard everything he was saying many times before in his class, and this time his words hit home. Like everything else, my ghayd comes from Allah (SWT) and if I were to be so unhappy about it, then I was discontent with has been decreed. This moment was a complete turnaround for me, I had to believe that my Hajj was destined to happen in a certain way, and this was it. I focused on readjusting my mindset, and after throwing all my expectations of how I thought my Hajj was to be out the window,  I embraced this little bump in the road with gratitude.

This was merely a trial, a test for me, and I could not let my dissatisfaction with a natural occurrence ruin my Hajj experience. I sat down with my spiritual programme and reworked it slightly. Apart from the discomfort, and physical pain, there was still lots I was able to do. Thikr, duah, reciting from surahs and quiet contemplation. I could not perform salaah nor would I be able to perform my Tawaful Ifaldah, and I accepted that this is what has been decreed. It was a tangible reminder that I do not control my body, even though modern medicine fooled me into thinking I could control my cycle. Everything in this world is decreed by the Grace of the Almighty, and what I may have thought of as a 'curse' initially was an important lesson in Tawakkul. I became acutely aware that my very existence and presence on Mina is by the Mercy of my Creator, and being His invited guest is more than I could ever ask for. My entire journey leading up to this point had been filled with lessons and trials (which I ultimately regarded as blessings), and my Hajj would be no different.

And as I sat on the bus, weaving its way slowly, amongst many many buses carting hundreds of thousands of pilgrims to gather on Mina, I made the decision to welcome anything that came my way these next few days. I was faced with a decision: I could make my one and only Fard Hajj unpleasant by lamenting my fate, or embrace it and make my Hajj the most beautiful experience I could ever have imagined, regardless of my physical state. We arrived at our designated camp on Mina, which was almost at the border of Musdalifah, so it was the furthest camp. The mens and womens tents for our tour group were next to each other, accommodating about 50 women on small mattresses. This was my space for the next few days, my spot for contemplation, reading, duah and thikr. And it is still the most extraordinary part of my journey.

I have been told some stories about the bathroom facilities on Mina, and to prepare myself my bathroom bag was equipped (read that post here about what I packed). This too was one aspect where I was determined would not be a stumbling block and that this would not deter my focus. So I managed the bathrooms with ease, even in my state where I needed to use the loo constantly. We were to spend the 5 waqts on Mina before departing for Arafah the following day. For me this time was the most memorable, it was the start of the long awaited days of Hajj. I was on a constant high, buzzing on a frequency which made sleep impossible. I was too afraid of missing out on this most precious. Seeing all the hujaaj from all over the world, donned in the same garb, assembling on this vast land of tents for the same purpose, was a privilege and an unforgettable experience. There is no better picture, nor experience to affirm the oneness of humanity, the oneness of Islam and how far our beautiful Deen extends.

My message to 1439 Hujaaj is to grab every step of this journey with both hands, savour every moment, even the difficult times. Hajj starts at home, and with the Ramadaan coming to a close, you will be engulfed in hajj preparations for the next few weeks. Enjoy it, embrace it for it will be deposited in the memory banks forever, and resurface at any time as if it had occuered just yesterday. 

My next post will cover Arafah, Musdalifah, pelting Aqabah and the Tawaful Ifaldah...

The sign which marks the boundary of Mina

Tents and tents and more tents! This is Mina as viewed from the bridge- we were taken on an orientation
walkabout by our operator the night before we were due to leave.

The mattresses have pillows and blankets when you arrive 

The bathroom  

The shower just above the eastern loo

Our camp was number 21 and was fenced off

Ciao for now, 

RuBe xoox

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35 days in Makkah

Asalaamu Alaykum readers, 

Ramadaan is in full force, and I constantly find myself yearning for the Haram at various times in the day. There is something really magical about this month that reinforces my experiences of Hajj every single day. There are times where I recite in the tranquil space of my home, and I'm instantly transported back to Madinah, where I spent countless hours reciting in the Haram. 

My last post Makkah post ended with our first Umrah, where I found myself on this amazing high, unable to think of anything else but the majestic Baytullah. I was transfixed with the reality of actually being there in person and able to rest my gaze on this most beautiful view. Upon returning to our room after umrah, I rushed to the window with the hope that I'd be able to see the Ka'bah, I could however just see the Mataaf (the area just outside the entrance). The significance of the first Umrah still sat with me, and continued into the next day. Once we had a little nap after breakfast to restore our energy, we headed out to explore. This vibrant city had already taken residence in my heart, and I was entranced with every step I took around Makkah. The malls are filled with shops and stalls, fast food places, the ever present Bin-Dawood, and of course thousands of people navigating their way around the Haram.

The Haram is obviously the centre and the heart of this city, pulsing hundreds of thousands of people in and out every hour. We were fortunate to make it to the Haram for every waqt and grabbing a great spot for salaah (prayer) was relatively easy in the first two weeks. Makkah started filling up really quickly after that, and at every turn, I was faced with a fellow Muslim from a different country. It was overwhelming to know that there were 3 million people headed for this city to fulfil the final pillar. All our time was spent in prayer in the Haram, catching up on sleep and eating. Some time was spent shopping, although we did most of our shopping in Madinah to ensure maximum time in the Haram.

We were so fortunate to have spent over a month Makkah. 35 Days!!

This included our time in Azizziyah and Mina, and yet, when I reflect back it sped by in a heartbeat. We were in central Makkah until 4th Thul Hijjah, ie a total of 19 days before we left for Azizziyah (I'll cover Azziziyah in another post). We felt that this move to Azziziyah would be essential, to have those 3 nights in Azizziyah to rest up and prepare for the 5 days of Hajj. It provided me with time to disengage from the Ka'bah and focus on my spiritual preparation for Hajj.

Those 19 days are indelibly etched in my memory as clearly as if it had happened yesterday. In between waqts we would perform tawaafs, usually one per day, which we did at various times. After Thuhr and before Asr used to be very quiet, but in the heat of the day. Or between Maghrieb & Eshaa, which was cooler, but fuller. The most extraordinary thing is that even though the area around the Ka'bah would be unbelievably congested, we would always find a place. And even better, we'd even find ourselves close to the Ka'bah Algamdulilah! We performed every single tawaaf right by the Ka'bah, often with masses and masses of people. 

Our travel operator took us on a few ziyarahs, to see Jabal Rahmah (Arafat), the Mina Camps, we did a walking tour to the birthplace of the Prophet (PBUH) (almost on the Mataaf) and visited Jabal Thawr. Jabal Thawr is the mountain that the Prophet (PBUH) and Abu Bakr sought refuge in for 3 days and nights from the Quraysh. The feeling of walking in the steps of our Islamic history is so powerful and so intense. We also performed a midnight climb up Jabal Nur, to the cave (Hira) where the Prophet (PBUH) received the first revelations of the Holy Quran during the month of Ramadaan. I felt so honoured and privileged to be able to perform 2 rakats in this cave, on the very same place as our beloved Nabi Mohammad (SAW), Subghaanallah!♥️

Our Hajj group also performed a few Umrahs afterwards, and we also chose to do some on our own. Another exceptional moment for me was celebrating my 40th birthday on Hajj, and performing an umrah with hubby just after Fajr that morning. I cannot even describe the fullness of my heart on that morning, except to say that gratitude and awe are very mild words to capture my feelings. All that I know is, when you're on Hajj, it becomes very clear why we revere our Hujaaj so much. My dialogue with the Almighty is so sacred, it is as clear as day, and I could tangibly feel the mercy, the all-knowingness,  of my Creator every single day on this journey. It has been something that has remained with me since, and I try to be conscious of this all the time, striving to live and performing my prayers with the same manner of supplication.

 

Day 1 after the first Umrah

It was really empty during the first two weeks

Jabal Thawr in the background

Jabal Rahmah

Mid-day Tawaafs

After climbing Jabal Nur (Hira) & performing two rakahs in the cave 

The birthplace of the Prophet (PBUH) in the background

The gate closest to the place where the house of Khadija 

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Practical tips on preparing for Hajj

Hello lovelies!

After doing a presentation this past weekend to our prospective Hujaaj, I realised all the preparation that has to go into it. I suppose I was 'fortunate' to have been accredited only 4 weeks to prior to leaving, so I really couldn't take all the time in the world to prepare. However, having said that, there are so many aspects of the Hajj which I had hoped I had been able to prepare for.

Choice of Operator

I have already covered what needs to be considered when choosing an operator. Read that post here. It's vital to choose wisely, as each Hujaaj's needs vary, so your choice should be right for you. Take into account your budget, your travel needs whilst abroad and listen and chat to your choice of operator to ensure that they are on the same page as you.

Budget
This is a very important aspect, and not only refers to your budget for the package, but also includes spending money (while you are in Saudi). These are the factors to take into account:

1. Your budget in terms of the suitable package is first and foremost, and while it would be ideal to have 5 star accommodation for duration of the trip, 4-6 weeks is a really long time and this will be extremely costly. Remember the intention of the trip and work with your budget around this e.g. if it means taking a 4 star in Madinah so that you have more cash for Makkah accommodation. Also remember that if you're deferring, the costs for the following year will be higher, and could include unexpected additional costs. This year tax was implemented and they've discontinued Saudi subsidisation of Tanazul.
2. In addition to your package, you would need to budget for your meals and other expenses whilst you are in Saudi, and gifts you'd like to purchase. For a 4-6 week stay you could budget on about R13,000-R20,000 per couple for food, depending on your meal requirements. Breakfast is usually covered by the hotel, which means you would have to cover a light lunch (I didn't eat too much at lunch) and a good supper. This excludes any other little snacks you may purchase along the way, such as the occasional juice, Starbucks (if you're a coffee connoisseur), supplies at the supermarket, airtime and taxi fare.
3. Try to purchase as much as you can here and take along with you, snacks (nuts, biltong, sweets, chips, biscuits, rooibos teabags), even peanut butter, crackers and tuna if you're wanting to save on buying food every day. Also buy your ihraam, fragrance free toiletries, medication, rehidrate etc in SA.
4. If you're Cape Town based, you will without a doubt have many guests coming to wish you well on your journey. This means planning snacks, food for mealtimes and ensuring that the guests are looked after, is a real cost which has to be accounted for.
5.  Leaving your family for a 4-6 week period is daunting, and budgeting for that upfront was even more so. Ensure that the utilities (electricity, water and telephone bills) are paid upfront, school fees and extra mural fees are paid, food is covered for the time you are away and any cash for unforeseen circumstances.
6. Leave some cash behind so that the family can arrange for your homecoming without putting unnecessary pressure on family.

Miscellaneous

When I left, I put the following in place:

1. Complete calendars for each of my kids on the kitchen fridge, so that everyone knew where they needed to be and when. With their busy schedules it's easy to get overwhelmed.
2. Any important school events which would happen whilst you are away, I had to arrange that my middle son gets to and from the Science Olympiad, and that his job shadow week had been sorted.
3. Notify the schools that you'll be gone and provide an alternate number for them to contact during your absence.
4. Arrange a letter to medical aid, informing them who the caregiver is in your absence. Leave the medical aid card with the caregiver.
5. Compile a list of all important numbers eg. lift club, school teachers, music teachers, family doctor, grandparents, friends, parents of friends etc. This was sent to all who would assist with fetching and carrying.

Packing

1. Most airlines have generous luggage allowances (2 x 23kg per person)- this is effectively two large suitcases. Remember that you may be shopping quite a bit so will need to keep some luggage allowance for your trip back. If you'll be going to Masjidul Aqsa after hajj, you may need to reduce to one bag depending on the airline requirements. In this instance, you may need to utilise the post office to send some luggage home. 
2. With the prices of snacks rather high in the Kingdom, take along your favourites from here. Nuts are very pricey, cereal bars, peanut butter, sweets, trail mix- light food which is easy to pack and will keep your energy reserves high. I'm finicky with my teas, so I took my own stash of teabags. (I repeat this as it is uncanny how much daily snacks can amount to in Saudi Riyals!)
3. Favourite toiletries, since the heat is excessive it can play havoc on your skin, so ensure that you pack your preferred products- once again they can be very pricey in Saudi. I found my foot care regime to be very important and took along the Body Shop Peppermint foot range: the scrub, the energising spray and the foot butter. These worked miracles on my tired feet at the end of the day (and kept them soft and smooth too!)
4. An ice towel is an essential item to help keep cool in the oppressive heat, and even though men aren't able to wear it in whilst in ihraam, it can be used to wipe yourself down. This too was purchased in SA and taken along.
5. Take care to stock up on your medication, chronic as well as occasional medication. I packed painkillers, daily vitamin supplements, Panado, Mybulen & Nurofen, flu medication, Strepsil lozenges, cough syrup, Imodium, Rehidrate, Reuterina tablets and natural products like Septogard and Echinaforce. I've heard that you can no longer obtain anti-biotics without a prescription, so try and take some along in the event of an emergency.
6. I packed few abayahs (only two excluding the one I wore) and bought as I needed in Madinah. I found the light burkahs which I bought from Get Covered locally to be perfect in the intense heat. I loved the mesh ones, and to combat the transparency, I wore two of them, one as an under burkah :-D 
7. Don't forget a good, quality pair of sunglasses, preferably a plastic frame as the metal frames heat up and burn the skin.
8. Reading material, Hajj journal and a good camera if you're keen. I actually used my phone camera as it is easier to carry around.
9. Pack your ihraam separately, I packed all my Umrah ihraam, and Hajj ihraam separately. The abayah, the scarves, underwear etc and kept them ready for when I would need them. 
10. A light, comfy pair of sneakers for when you're visiting ziyarahs and need to climb hills, as well as a comfy pair of sandals for walking long distances and would be appropriate for ihraam (I wore Birkenstocks). 
11. I pre-packed a Hajj bathroom bag for the days at Mina: This included a hand & foot towel, fragrance free soap, wudu spray bottle, shampoo, lotion, hand sanitiser and lip balm (all available at Sawants sold by Pure Bloom). I included latex gloves, feminine wipes, elastic band, tissues and  Dettol & water solution in a spray bottle (this I only did just before departing for Mina.)

Have a good idea of what you'd like to buy as gifts, I had my children compile wish lists, to make my gift shopping easier. They also each wrote a special note to us which we would read once we arrived in Madinah, as well as specific duahs they wanted us to make on their behalf. I had written each of them a personal letter, which they opened on the first night we were away. It was a special gesture, and something for them to refer back to when they were missing us and feeling down. 

We also decided to leave a day early and stay overnight in Johannesburg to get some rest before leaving SA. So we booked into a hotel on the airport and met up with our Hajj group the next morning fresh and rested!

I hope this comprehensive list can help the with the long list of things to do, and make life just a little easier.

Wishing all the prospective Hujaaj well with the preparation, and may all your Ibadah be accepted and return with a Hajj Maqbool & Mabroer!

Because I struggle to eat fast food we occassionally ended up eating at the hotel restaurants,
The Intercontinental in Madinah was a favourite.

There are quite a few malls which have branded stores, however these are much more expensive
than the market traders. 

The food court at Al Noor Mall, Madinah. Just a caution, fast food is very expensive!

Even budgeting for small little snacks need to be taken into account

The foyer of the Hyatt Hotel, Makkah, which we stayed in 

Burgers galore at any food court! I ate burgers for some variety, 4-6 weeks is a long time!

Starbucks is as always very costly!! 

My sandals (Havaianas) I took along didn't last in the heat and broke,
so I purchased these on a sale for much less than it costs in SA! 

Some of the gifts I received before leaving which came in very handy.

I was also gifted a complete set of fragrance free products from Pure Bloom, a range manufactured
locally and available for sale at Sawants. These products are super hydrating and nourishing for the
skin in the harsh Saudi climate.

Good luck once again with your preparation and planning!

Ciao for now, 

RuBe xoxo

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Madinah to Makkah... The first umrah

Hi lovelies!

I've been so busy doing Hajj write ups this week, that I felt it was appropriate to do my next instalment. I have also chatted to so many people and I cannot contain my excitement for the prospective hujaaj, for what they're about to experience! Right now, for prospective hujaaj, hajj may seem like it's still far off, with all the administration and preparation required ... but trust me, it will be here in a flash!

After spending a spiritually rejuvenating 12 days in tranquil Madinah, we prepared to depart for Makkah. Prior to leaving, our spiritual leader held refresher umrah classes, discussed the history and generally got us into the right frame of mind for our approach to Makkah. This was the next step on our life changing journey, one where we've accepted the most important invitation of our lives. For me, it was a journey I had pictured in my minds eye for years, I even had a vivid dream (years prior to this journey) of my first sight of the Ka'bah. So the prospect of finally realising this dream and fulfilling a life-long aspiration had me in tears and filled with anticipation. I was preparing for the monumental moment where I stepped into the Haram for the very first time. 

We were briefed on logistics, and were ready in our ihraam (special clothes required) to leave the hotel. For women normal attire can serve as ihraam, and doesn't need to be white, for men however, the ihraam constitutes the two pieces of white cloth. As with any movements for hujaaj during this time, the Saudi government provide buses for the 450km journey into Makkah. About 15 minutes outside of  Madinah we stopped off to perform Thuhr (mid -afternoon prayer) and made our nieyah to enter into the state of ihraam (we were already dressed in the garb). 

The bus ride was actually an unexpectedly pleasant one, especially after the horror stories I've heard from previous hujaaj about how awful this bus ride is. We made one stop along the road to eat and navigated our way through various checkpoints before arriving at our hotel. We left Madinah just before 1pm and arrived at our hotel after 9pm, this is after all the security checks and delays, but overall it was still a good trip! Soon after getting our luggage and checking into a very lovely hotel room, with a view facing the Haram we were ready for our umrah. Our group made arrangements to meet in the foyer an hour later, and in the meantime hubby and I explored a bit looking for food. 

We met up with our group, each and every one on a spiritual high, with our hotel just across the road from the Haram, we didn't have far to go. As we entered, through King Fahd gate, our spiritual leader prepared us for the first sight of the Ka'bah. We kept our eyes downcast, as we descended the stairs towards the Ka'bah, filled with wonder and awe. We then stood in front of the Ka'bah, our eyes still downcast, and only when we had our duah for this very moment prepared, did we look up. It was breathtaking, emotiona,l and before I realised it, the tears of gratitude and awe were streaming down my face. I really needed a few moments to take it all in; to absorb the magnitude of this moment, to  digest the fact that I was indeed a guest the house of Allah (SWT)! ♥️ This moment is one that will remain etched in my memory bank forever. Algamdulilah!

We proceeded to perform our tawaaf (7 circumambulations) with a relatively empty Haram (by this time it was already past 12am) and thereafter the Saai. Throughout this I could not tear my eyes away from the Ka'bah, this monument to which I have directed my musallah for prayers every single day. It was now an actual physical presence, with such magnetic attraction I didn't want to leave.  Had we not been beyond exhausted, I'd want to stay for hours more. After the saai, we clipped the hair and returned to the hotel room to freshen up, shower, change and grab an hours shut eye before Tahajud.

This experience is like nothing I have ever encountered, the spiritual high is inexplicable and so grounding. It's as if I had found the place which communicates with my soul. This is where my soul is at HOME, the place which will forever call for my soul to return!

Ready to leave our hotel

The bus was pretty comfortable for the long drive ahead

The mosque at Bir-Ali

Shortly after entering the state of ihraam for the first time

The 'rest stops' along the route to Makka

The road between Madinah and Makkah is mainly barren, rocky desert

After completing our first umrah

Ciao for now,

RuBe xoxo

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Choosing a Hajj Operator #HajjSeries

Assalaamu Alaykum and welcome back Readers!

I have only recently realised the overwhelm prospective pilgrims face when needing to decide on a travel operator with whom they will travel. Since we were accredited so late, we didn't have the opportunity to shop around and were given 24 hours to confirm our travel operator as well as our chosen package (which was kind of chosen for us, as is the case with a late accreditation). With the deadline looming for prospective pilgrims for this year to make a final decision, I have put together a few pointers on choosing the right operator for you. 

Even though I am a seasoned traveller, it was essential for me to have the right operator. For this trip, your operator, along with the Saudi government, manages your movements in and out of the city. They take ownership of your passport, book your accommodation, arrange your transfers and look after you during the days of Hajj. For this reason it is critical to be comfortable with your operator, and to trust that they will deliver on all the promises made.

I am not specifically advocating a particular travel operator in this post, however, I believe that an operator contributes greatly to your overall Hajj experience. If the operator takes care of logistics without you needing to be concerned, it would free you up to concentrate on having a most wondrous experience. My journey was a phenomenal one, completely fulfilling spiritually, while the usual logistical aspects were comfortably taken care of by my operator.

When deciding on your travel operator keep the following in mind:

1. Do you trust the operator? This is someone who literally plans your entire trip, where you stay, the period you'll stay for 4-6 weeks. And all of this needs to be paid for upfront before you arrive in the kingdom.
2. Reputation and track record of the operator: Chat to pilgrims who have travelled with the operator the year before, read reviews from previous travellers and research the various muslim  news platforms for any developments. 
3. Even if you're travelled before, this journey is unlike any other trip, so ask as many questions as you need to, to feel comfortable making the final decision. Elderly travellers who have never been abroad will need some guidance as this simple exercise can prove to be extremely overwhelming. 
4. On this note, check how big the group travelling with an operator will be, the bigger the group, the more you'd need to be independent and be able to manage on your own. The agent would have arranged what they can, but it is very difficult to attend to individual needs with a large group. My group was one of the smallest at 80 people, and our operator knew each Hujaaj, by face, name, our chosen package and what our individual requirements were. One cannot underestimate the importance of this!
5. Carefully tabulate the costs, ask about hidden costs and specifically the proximity of the hotel as well as the length of stay at a specific hotel. It is crucial to note, that any hotel more than 300m from the Haram will mean 25min walk to get into the Haram during Hajj season. This is mainly due to large crowds, and the entrances being closed off randomly everyday to safely manage the large influx of people. Shuttles cannot get close to the Haram during this time as roads are closed, so it will still require a walk from your hotel. Aziziyah accommodation do not offer shuttles, instead one has to try and catch a SAPTCO bus on the main road. This too is a mission, as it includes a walk (often in the blazing sun) to the main road, and then waiting for a bus or taxi. It could take about an hour to get to the Haram, and then a 25 min walk from the bus terminus. 
6. Don't forget to include any additional costs in your calculations, this would include food for 4-6 weeks (which is a very real cost and so expensive), travel costs for taxis /buses, any ziyarahs, spending money for gift buying, hosting your guests before you leave and ensuring the home and kids, even elderly parents, are taken care of financially.
7. Before paying any deposit, ensure that you have a contract, in writing, with a detailed itinerary, and that it includes ALL costs. At this point in time the costs for airfares, tanazul and your days of hajj have not yet been finalised and will still need to be added onto any package quoted (if not stated).

I have tried to keep it as simple as possible, but cannot stress enough the importance this decision will be in your overall Hajj journey. While on pilgrimage I witnessed the dissatisfaction hujaaj expressed with their packages, it was either different to what they expected, a lesser hotel or just that the group was too big. It placed such a dampener on an experience which is meant to be amazing! I realise that cost is a HUGE factor, and it is therefore important to consult with a few agents (perhaps keep it to a minimum of 3/4 to prevent confusion) and ask if they are able to accommodate a certain budget. Or even if they are able to make exceptions on certain packages, by substituting one hotel for another or reducing length of stay; this could be a possibility for an agent with a smaller group. My opinion on a cost saving measure would be that one can compromise on a Madinah hotel, as most of them are pretty close to the Haram, and rather fork out for a good hotel in Makkah- where your ibadah is actually centered around.

Good luck making this decision and my thoughts are with all the prospective hujaaj. Furthermore, there has been an awesome development this week, Saudi has granted South Africa an additional 1,000 visas! This means people who thought they may not go this year stand a very real chance!

Allahu Akbar! ♥️

Taken one night before we left while greeting all our well wishers

Collecting our final documents at the agents offices

The morning we left

We chose to leave a day early and get some rest in Johannesburg before embarking on our journey the next morning

SAHUC and agents assisting with the checking in process

The first sight when you land in Madinah and enter the airport

Madinah airport

Our spiritual leader for our group hosted lessons in the Madhinah hotel prior to our performimg our first Umrah

Ghaalid & I spent a lot of time on our own, exploring and visiting landmarks

I hope this guide is useful, if you have any questions, please ask!

Caio for now, 

RuBe xoxo 

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